How To Refuel With POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer | restoration tips (2023)

There was some good progress on Project 13/30 last month, but looking at it, it would be hard to say exactly where. Still, it happened, and I know it because I was there. With the BMR subframe connectors welded on and the shell now flipped onto the grill, I tackled the rear wheel wells. The black Eastwood chassis that covers the bottom should offer a lot of protection, but I figured it can't have much rust rust, so I bought Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic.(1). This is a two part paint plus thinner if needed so I mixed it 50/50 and added a drop of thinner because it was cold. Plastic measuring jugs like these(2)Wilkinson's are around 30p and are perfect. I lined the entire back arch on both sides plus some seams(3).

This is great, but I had forgotten how much a kitty litter box smells and how powerful the vapors are!

I also broke Tetrosyl Stone Chip for the bottom of the sills. This is another thick paint designed to bounce off gravel right away, so I masked off the bottom of each sill and gave it a coat.(4). It was designed to be repainted, but this strip is out of sight anyway.

I briefly turned my attention to the axle housing, which I want to send to the media to blow up. I would like to remove the bushings that hold the upper arms to the differential case(5)but they are not willing to change. I cobbled together a bearing puller using an old Cortina knockout bushing removal tool (ask any old mechanic about Cortina knockout bushings and watch them shudder) and the front wheel bearing outer collar of an FWD car, but even with a little persuasion from a torch.(6)and a subsequent small fire, they refused to move. In fact, you may have to get the right tool for the job.

In the meantime, I turned the shaft around and removed the tailgate to look inside.(7).

I unscrewed the conveyor bearings.(10)and raised differential unit(11)after releasing it with a light push from a long bar. On each side of the differential is a support bearing and a shim or shims. It's crucial to make sure these shims go back where they came from, so I secured the shims, bearing races, and bearing cover to the correct side of the diff with clamps.(12), then wrapped everything in plastic for storage.

So I turned my attention to the fuel tank, which required removing it from the donor car, which is outside and… oh great, it's dark and it's raining hard. To get to the fuel tank I first had to remove the tow bar.(13) then unscrew the nuts that hold the neck to the body inside the hatch(14).

So I got under the car and oh my gosh I can't believe it's rusting fast! It is dissolving before my eyes; one of the reasons I'm so interested in making Project 13/30 rust proof as best I can. I placed a jack under the center of the tank, took the weight, and unscrewed the bolts holding the tank straps.(15).

With the straps out of the way, simply slowly lower the jack while pulling the tank out of the filler neck.(17). Remember not to break the rubber ring where the filler goes into the tank, as they are very expensive to replace. With the tank in the ground, you can disassemble the fuel supply and return lines and fuel pump wiring.(18), all previously grouped together, then drag the tank out(19). Considering that it is completely steel, the tank seems to have survived quite well.

The tank sits in a protective plastic tray, so with that out of the way(20)Could remove that expensive rubber filler grommet(21), steam line cover(22), the gasoline pump(23)and the fuel level sender.

The rusty steel return tube simply broke and a part came off along with the rubber tube. The bracket that holds the filter was quite crusty but looked like it would clean up just fine, but I did notice no screw holes in the casing.(31). Well, of course, there wouldn't be, would there? The hull is an 83, before they switched to fuel injection! This would not be the last time an issue like this arises.

The Metal Prep was about to come out of the tank now, so I emptied it back into the bottle.(32)– it is reusable – and rinse the tank again with lukewarm water. The tank needs to be pretty dry before the next step, so I went to the nearest Screwfix and treated myself to a heat gun for £11, came back, removed all the tape plugs and set the tank out to dry.(33). Although it's hard to see inside the tank, I could see that there was still moisture trapped in the seam - this tank, like most tanks, is made of a top half and bottom half pressed and welded together, so there's a big seam running all the way around way around the middle. I chased the moisture heating the outer seam(34).

Then it was time for the last step: thePOR-15 Fuel Tank Seal (35). The instructions say to stir the can until an even color is achieved, and while it's very tempting to watch the kaleidoscope of black and silver effects, it took about 15 minutes to achieve. I then closed all the holes and poured the sealant into the tank.(36). Again, you'll want to make sure the sealant covers every inch of the internal surface of the tank, so having a Workmate that you can clamp the tank to at odd angles helps a lot. Then when the time is up you pour it all back in - I poured the whole can and about three quarters of it came back out. There's nothing you can do with the leftovers, just wait for them to harden and throw them away, which seems like a shame.

The next day I went over the inside of the tank with a torch and it seems I got complete coverage. It takes a full day's work to get it right: two shots of Cleaner Degreaser, one shot of Metal Prep, and one shot of Fuel Tank Sealer, but that's about two hours of work and four or five hours of sitting in between, so so you can continue with other things. Anything that prevents the tank from rusting and clogging the fuel lines and prevents the ethanol in the fuel from corroding the tank is fine by me, so I consider it a job well done.

There is a lot more Project 13/30 work on the way, so stay tuned for next month when we hope to start the plumbing.

–Eastwood Extreme Chassis Primer

–Eastwood Extreme Chassis Paintamerican bedroom

–POR15 Degreasing Cleaner(para Marine Clean)

–Metal preparation POR15(was prepped and ready)

–POR15 tank sealant

– Or you can buy a completeFuel tank repair kitwhich includes the three steps you need, it depends on the size of your tank.

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